Sunday 9 March 2014

Balancing Boldness

The winter league season has been fun.  I did the full Climbing Station league in Loughborough and came 2nd. I found this a really challenging league. It was split into three categories; beginner, intermediate and open. I entered the open. All the problems in each round needed to be treated with respect as there were no ‘ladders’! There were a lot of technical vertical problems and some really bold dynamic moves. I struggled in the last two rounds and just made too many mistakes, coupled with not warming up sufficiently to be moving fluidly on the first few problems. Rooky errors, but all good practice on styles of climbing that I am growing to enjoy more than I used to.

I also competed in Blokfest, located predominantly in the south of the UK. I won the league by one point! The overall league standing were based on points only and did not take into account performance in the ‘finals’ that took place after each round. Michaela Tracy dominated the finals that were carried out in a World Cup format. The finals had super problems that were enjoyable, often flamboyant, and typically needing to be flashed. There was always balancing required, some big round volumes to hug, and big bold moves. All exactly what I wanted to be practicing and I was really happy with some of the moves I pulled off and committed to.

I also partially did the Foundry and Climbing Works leagues in Sheffield, typically finding the Foundry league more suited to my strengths. This stood me in good stead for the Foundry Bouldering Open where I came 3rd behind Shauna Coxsey and Michaela Tracy, with only one attempt on tops splitting us. I messed up the beta on the balance problem by choosing to be bold and bouncy instead of balancing on my first attempt. I had the presence of mind to adjust my approach and get to the top which I was pleased about. Sometimes I think I’m starting to get the hang of this competition climbing and I really loved this comp!

All this practice brought me to the team GB selection day at the end of February. It comprised two rounds of World Cup format competition at the Castle in London. The first round was predominantly balances and insecure holds. Unfortunately I just wasn’t moving well and just kept having poor body positions that inhibited progress. I missed the subtlety. Arggggh. I was really disappointed with myself, but took a deep breath and lots of sustenance on board and steeled myself for the next round.

The second round was more basic and very physical. I particularly enjoyed wrestling with a volume conundrum. I was pleased to perform much better in the afternoon. I feel that I benefitted a lot from the whole day, finding some specific things that I can go away and get to grips with. It was also a hard and good workout. I need more of these to continue to advance my quest to conquer each boulder problem I’m faced with, because that’s my kind of fun!

Today the sun is shining, my thoughts are all about up and coming climbing. I have to rest to allow my body to recover so that it can continue to do what I ask of it. I’m psyched to have been selected to once again represent my country in some World Cups. I’m also looking forward to getting back out on the rock as the weather improves.

Fontainebleau is calling. I think I’m going to go back to Drei Zinnen among other areas. I really enjoyed Bifurcation (7b(+)) last autumn and want to get back on the various variations of Close Contact between balancing and being bold. I’ve been reminiscing and planning. Here’s Bifurcation (we think)

Bifurcation - Drei Zinnen from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.